TAG Heuerâs Latest Carrera Taps Team Ikuzawa
TAG Heuerâs Latest Carrera Taps Team Ikuzawa
Back for another lap with Bamford.Following TAG Heuerâs first collaboration with racing-inspired fashion label Team Ikuzawa and Bamford Watch Department in 2023, the trio has returned for a second lap with the Carrera Chronograph x Team Ikuzawa, bringing the red-and-white livery of the namesake racing team to the popular âglassboxâ format for the first time.
Initial thoughts
Unlike many other legacy Swiss watch brands, TAG Heuer has demonstrated an ability to reach beyond traditional design influences to infuse its watches with a diverse range of elements from contemporary fashion. Last yearâs Fujiwara streetwear collab is a prime example.
With racing being so strongly linked to TAG Heuerâs history and brand identity, the collaboration with Ikuzawa is conceptually very fitting and extends the brandâs reach beyond the starting grid, deeper into motorsport culture.
The Carrera Ikuzawa gets the mid-sized 39 mm âglassboxâ case, which is just under 14 mm thick. Due to the movement the case is a little tall, but proportioned well enough overall. The case takes its name from its dramatically domed crystal, which encompasses the raised dial flange underneath, in place of a traditional bezel.
Despite numerous vintage design cues, the Carrera Ikuzawa doesnât look or feel like a vintage watch or vintage reissue. The clous de Paris dial texture and the depth of the âglassboxâ construction help it maintain its contemporary look.
A Chrono-first dial
Originally a racing team that competed in a range of motorsports in the 1980s, Team Ikuzawa was more recently reborn as a fashion label, the brainchild of Mai Ikuzawa, daughter of the racing teamâs founder. With the basis of Team Ikuzawa being retro-style auto-racing, the vintage-inspired Carrera is a logical base.
With so much in common with the standard Carrera, much of the difference is down to the dial, which blends design cues from Team Ikuzawaâs racing liveries with inspiration from vintage Heuer racing dashboard timers, especially the Heuer Roadmaster rallytimer.
True to its racing-inspired theme, the dial design puts the focus almost entirely on the chronograph function. In contrast to the standard Carrera Chronograph lineup, the Carrera Ikuzawa deletes the usual applied hour markers in favour of a more minimalist, chronograph-first design.
This brings the chronograph sub-dials to full attention, especially the 30-minute sub-dial for the elapsed minutes, which features an exaggerated high-contrast red and white roulette design, popping against a white clous de Paris dial texture.
Above the date at six oâclock the âTeam Ikuzawaâ signature is on display front and centre in the exact same position many racing teams had their logos placed on vintage Carrera chronographs.
Track-tested movement
Functionally speaking, the Carrera Ikuzawa is an ordinary TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph, fitted with the cal. TH20-10 that powers the rest of the contemporary two-register line-up.
This variant of the brandâs bread-and-butter chronograph platform does away with a running seconds sub-dial usually found at six oâclock, which gives more space for the secondary signature.
Itâs a reliable movement with a weekend-proof 80-hour power reserve, and the chronograph is a modern design with both a column wheel and a vertical clutch. But despite its many attributes, a thinner chronograph calibre is probably in the works.
Unfortunately, the view of the movement â industrially finished though it may be â is obscured by both the Team Ikuzawa and Bamford logos, resulting in a cluttered look.
Tool time
The watch is cleverly delivered inside a toolbox in Ikuzawa red that wouldnât look out of place in pit lane. The box is triple-signed and includes two extra straps that can be swapped in for the seven-link bracelet that comes standard. The packaging is somewhat beyond the norm for TAG Heuer, but it reinforces the Carreraâs character as a born-and-bred racing tool.
Key Facts and Price
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Team Ikuzawa Limited Edition
Ref. CBS221M.EB0435
Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 13.9 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m
Movement: TH20-10
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and chronograph
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 80 hours
Strap: Steel bracelet, with two supplementary straps included
Limited edition: 150 pieces
Availability: Available from TAG Heuer boutiques and authorised retailers
Price: US$10,500 before taxes
For more, visit Tagheuer.com.
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