See the Real Valparaíso by Riding Its Historic Funiculars

Quiet, low-impact, and remarkably efficient, funicular railways have hummed up and down Valparaíso’s steep cerros since 1883. Travelers are likely to encounter artistic renderings of these boxy cabins long before stepping inside one; as iconic to the city as its painted streets, they have become muses for porteño makers. Yet to those who call Valparaíso home, the ascensores serve a far more practical purpose — and their future is at risk. See the Real Valparaíso by Riding Its Historic Funiculars “For years, the ascensores were seen simply as tourist attractions, but they are more than that: they are a form of public transport, they boost the local economy, they connect people, facilitate movement, and contribute to neighborhood life and social interaction,” explains Pilar Espinoza Figueroa, president of the Association of Elevator Users in Valparaíso (Ascenval). Founded in 2021, the citizen-led organization campaigns to keep the ascensores operating, viewing them as a way to reduce pressure on the city’s roads while preventing social isolation. “It is a mode of transport suited to the city’s geography, and it is also part of Valparaíso’s identity,” adds fellow board member Andrés Rodrigo Valenzuela Ormeño. “Ascensores connect the neighborhoods on the hills with the flat area where most of the shops, workplaces, educational establishments, and other services are located.” Powering Chile’s vertical city These machines were born out of necessity. As the seaport expanded at lightning speed during the late 19th century, workers needed a way to move between the docks and hillside neighborhoods. In its heyday, Valparaíso was served by over 30 funiculars, many of which were converted over time from steam or water to electric power, improving their efficiency and reducing their reliance on fossil fuels. “It is a reliable and frequent service; it does not pollute or cause congestion. In some cases, it’s the only option apart from walking,” says Ormeño, lamenting that of the 19 surviving funiculars, fewer than 10 remain in operation. In fact, three of the sites are little more than land as the mechanics have long since vanished. Escorting me around his hometown, Ascenval’s treasurer reveals abandoned tracks consumed by foliage and explains the problems that have stalled movement on the much-needed Artillería and Villaseca ascensores, which historically linked the port with the densely populated hill of Playa Ancha. The decline began in the early 20th century. The opening of the Panama Canal in 1914 dealt a major blow to Valparaíso’s position as an international port, while improved roads offered alternative ways to navigate the terrain. The once privately operated ascensores fell into disrepair, and ownership of those that survive is now largely divided between the local municipality and the regional government. Recognition of their cultural importance came later, culminating in Valparaíso’s historic quarter being recognized by UNESCO in 2003. However, while the World Heritage designation helps protect the historic urban landscape, it does not automatically restore every ascensor or offer any guarantee. This is the gap that Ascenval looks to address. Ascenval, a voice for Valparaíso’s ascensores Founded by César Andrade Valdebenito, Figueroa’s predecessor, Ascenval emerged during the pandemic. Funded by member contributions, the advocacy organization comprises around 30 community representatives. Ascenval lobbies for and monitors restoration projects, which are put out to tender to engineering, construction, architecture, and heritage-restoration companies. Tenders can stall or fail because of funding constraints, a lack of technical expertise, or approval processes. “Our work includes organizing meetings with authorities and representing Ascenval before ministries, public services, and members of parliament,” explains Pilar. “We develop and put forward proposals to influence public policy relating to the lifts, and we monitor the commitments made by authorities and public bodies.” Their mission is to defend the funicular as a form of public transport in Valparaíso and help develop a sustainable model for public management. The four board members are neither historians nor transport engineers: they joined Ascenval to preserve their city’s living industrial heritage and be a voice for the community. “I wanted to do something for my city, and this opportunity came up in a video I saw on social media,” says Ormeño, a web developer by day who devotes much of his free time to campaign work. “I felt that the lifts were an important issue worth championing to prevent them from disappearing, as several of them have been abandoned.” Accessibility and social connection Growing up in Cerro Alegre, Ormeño was a regular user of Ascensor El Peral, whereas Figueroa relied on the now decommissioned Ascensor Artillería. They’re able to see first-hand the impact of reduced transport on their neighbors. “Mobility is restricted, which has an economic impact on neighborhoods and local businesses,” says Figueroa. “Not having access to transport and being unable to get home safely takes a toll on mental health. It brings an entire community to a standstill, affecting tourism, the economy and the right to move about freely and safely.” Besides partaking in institutional forums, Ascenval coordinates with residents’ associations and puts on community activities. These include awareness workshops where families can hear about the latest developments while painting funicular carriages. Ascensor Mariposa was transformed into an outdoor movie theater as part of the city’s recent Heritage Day, and community inspections of abandoned elevators invite locals to hear about the current issues facing restoration efforts. How to experience the funiculars While ASCENVAL’s work is focused on advocacy and supporting resident communities, Figueroa and Ormeño are keen for tourism to play a role in the ascensores’ future. “I envisage a form of community-based tourism where visitors can experience neighborhood life and visit picadas to enjoy traditional porteño dishes,” describes Figueroa. “Where they can take the lift up and then make their way down through the magical passageways and staircases of this port city.” “Tourism is beneficial for Valparaíso as long as visitors respect its residents and appreciate and look after the city,” Ormeño adds. “The lifts in the most popular tourist areas carry more passengers, and this helps to fund the system,” he says. In this way, the ascensores perform a dual purpose: they are both public transport and part of Valparaíso’s tourism experience. Ascenval publishes the current operational status on its website while Pindoor charts all locations. Constrained within the UNESCO-designated quarter, El Peral and Concepción are reliably in operation. The ascensores are open between the hours of 07:00 AM and 09:30 PM (give or take). Each ride costs 1,000 Chilean pesos (1 USD) for foreign residents, payable in cash at the station. Ormeño also recommends venturing off-piste to see the out-of-service funiculars, starting with Ascensor Polanco, the city’s only “true” elevator. This fully vertical elevator is accessible from the lower level via an underground passageway; although now closed, it’s curious to peer through the gate. San Agustín is an unassuming, operational asecensor used primarily by residents. There’s no sea view on this ride, but you might say that this ascensor best demonstrates the system’s original purpose — getting you home.