Hands On: Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt

Hands On: Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt High contrast and highly refined.Daniel Roth’s svelte time-only watch remains compact but gains presence with the Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt. While it is just a cosmetic update, the black dial with “gilt” markings create a high contrast look that is unusual for ultra-thin dress watches. The formal aesthetic on the front is matched by the DR002 on the reverse. Made by La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), the DR002 is a constructed and finished to a high level, continuing the philosophy of the revived Daniel Roth brand, which has been to recreate historical models, but enhanced superior, proprietary movements. Initial thoughts Style wise the Extra Plat is essentially a remake, albeit with nips and tucks to the design. The tweaks to the design are thoughtful but minimal, and preserve the original design. This is not a groundbreaking creation, but it is handsome and intrinsically appealing. This specific iteration is the best looking of the Extra Plat collection to date. The gold-on-black livery is striking. Unlike earlier versions of the model that are more conventional in colours, this is a more powerful combination, but still remains a formal dress watch. Moreover, the “gilt” dial itself is more complex than it appears: the gold markings are not print but instead the solid gold dial base below showing through the black coating. This illustrates the impressive manufacturing quality of Daniel Roth in general, or more specifically LFT. The Extra Plat retails for CHF55,000, which is competitive in today’s highly-priced market. It’s a little less than time-only watches from most small-scale independent watchmakers, but comparable in quality. Flat and fine Today’s Extra Plat sticks closely to the dimensions of the 1990s original, giving it the proportions of a dress watch of that period. It’s only 35.5 mm wide and 7.7 mm high, within the range of ideal sizing for a formal watch. Though it sits low on the wrist with a size that is minimal, the high-contrast dial gives this much more punch than its counterparts with more muted dials, like the recent platinum version in shades of grey. Like the other Daniel Roth revival models, the Extra Plat has a gently reworked case, most obviously in terms of the lugs, which now curve downwards. The resulting look is a little sleeker than the original style that featured straight, angular lugs with sharp bases. Though the dial is atypical for Daniel Roth, the “gilt” finish is historical; the original Daniel Roth brand did offer such dials across its entire model range in the 1990s. The “gilt” dial here, however, is made in a more elaborate way instead of just gold print on black. The dial starts as a solid gold base that is engine turned with a hand-operated straight line engine. Red masking varnish is then printed on the dial to create the necessary markings on the dial. The dial is then electroplated several times to built up a layer of black, giving it the slightly glossy black finish. The masking varnish is then chemically removed, revealing the gold dial base that thus forms the dial markings. At a distance this is indistinguishable from gold print, but up close it looks a little more refined. Add to that the solid gold hands, and the face of the Extra Plat is both expensively made and attractive. The same holds true on the back. While the 1990s original relied on a stock Frederic Piguet movement that was high end at the time and certainly fit for purpose then, today’s Extra Plat contains the DR002. It’s a simple calibre but done well. The construction incorporates elements expected for a top-of-the-line movement today, ranging from a free-sprung balance to the linear winding click in steel. Similarly, the decoration is done correctly with all the details attended to. These include screws and jewels in polished countersinks and the visible steel parts polished to a mirrored finish. Overall, the DR002 is comparable in quality to time-only movements from today’s fashionable, new-t0-market independent watchmakers, which makes the price of the Extra Plat relatively digestible. Key facts and price Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt Ref. DBBD04A1 Diameter: 38.6 mm by 35.5 mm Height: 7.7 mm Material: 18k rose gold Crystal: Sapphire Water resistance: 30 m Movement: Cal. DR002 Functions: Hours and minutes Winding: Manual-wind Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz) Power reserve: 65 hours Strap: Calfskin leather strap Limited edition: No Availability: At Daniel Roth retailers Price: CHF55,000 excluding taxes For more information, visit DanielRoth.com. Back to top.