The 38 Best Restaurants in Lisbon, Portugal, According to a Local Expert

A food-loving visitor will quickly learn that sardines, cod, and the iconic pastel de nata are great, but the Lisbon restaurant scene can offer much more. Portuguese cuisine draws on global flavors from the country’s centuries of trade, and Lisbon’s restaurateurs have access to top-quality fish and seafood, unique cheeses, lovely wines, and vegetables from organic farms just outside the city. In a capital experiencing lightning-fast growth, Lisbon’s food scene mediates the collision of old and new, weaving together trendy wine bars, Michelin-starred restaurants, traditional and casual venues, and neo-tascas (modern neighborhood restaurants) that combine aspects of all of the above. The 38 Best Restaurants in Lisbon, Portugal, According to a Local Expert From beloved Portuguese tascas to Michelin-starred dining, here’s Lisbon’s best food, according to a local dining expert We update this list regularly to make sure it reflects the ever-changing Lisbon dining scene. Our write-ups include insider tips from our experienced writers and editors, as well as a rough range of pricing for each destination — ranging from $ for quick, inexpensive meals with dishes largely under $10 (or the equivalent in euros), to $$$$ for places where entrees exceed $30. New to the map in Spetember 2026: Fall is when Lisbon starts to quiet down after the summer rush, while the days are still warm enough for sidewalk tables and long meals outdoors. This season’s additions capture different sides of a restaurant scene that continues to stretch beyond the usual definitions of Portuguese cooking. In Madragoa, Swedish chef Peter Nyström’s Familjen brings big flavors and plenty of spice to a sharing menu that happily strays from the Nordic rulebook. Copo Largo, near Largo do Rato, looks instead to the Portuguese tavern, with an ever-changing chalkboard menu and plenty of Portuguese wine to wash it all down. Near Lisbon Cathedral, former Boi-Cavalo chef Hugo Brito has revived the longtime Alpendre around what he calls “Lisbon food,” bringing old city classics back to the table. And Porto chef Vasco Coelho Santos has headed south with Lamina, where whole-animal cooking, charcuterie, and dishes cooked over fire give his first Lisbon restaurant its identity. Rafael Tonon is a journalist and food writer living between Brazil and Portugal, covering the restaurant industry in Lisbon for outlets like the Washington Post, Epicurious, and leading Portuguese publications. A contributor to Eater since 2008, he is also the author of Food Revolutions (published in Portuguese and Spanish). The 38 Best Restaurants in Lisbon, Portugal, According to a Local Expert From beloved Portuguese tascas to Michelin-starred dining, here’s Lisbon’s best food, according to a local dining expert A food-loving visitor will quickly learn that sardines, cod, and the iconic pastel de nata are great, but the Lisbon restaurant scene can offer much more. Portuguese cuisine draws on global flavors from the country’s centuries of trade, and Lisbon’s restaurateurs have access to top-quality fish and seafood, unique cheeses, lovely wines, and vegetables from organic farms just outside the city. In a capital experiencing lightning-fast growth, Lisbon’s food scene mediates the collision of old and new, weaving together trendy wine bars, Michelin-starred restaurants, traditional and casual venues, and neo-tascas (modern neighborhood restaurants) that combine aspects of all of the above. We update this list regularly to make sure it reflects the ever-changing Lisbon dining scene. Our write-ups include insider tips from our experienced writers and editors, as well as a rough range of pricing for each destination — ranging from $ for quick, inexpensive meals with dishes largely under $10 (or the equivalent in euros), to $$$$ for places where entrees exceed $30. New to the map in Spetember 2026: Fall is when Lisbon starts to quiet down after the summer rush, while the days are still warm enough for sidewalk tables and long meals outdoors. This season’s additions capture different sides of a restaurant scene that continues to stretch beyond the usual definitions of Portuguese cooking. In Madragoa, Swedish chef Peter Nyström’s Familjen brings big flavors and plenty of spice to a sharing menu that happily strays from the Nordic rulebook. Copo Largo, near Largo do Rato, looks instead to the Portuguese tavern, with an ever-changing chalkboard menu and plenty of Portuguese wine to wash it all down. Near Lisbon Cathedral, former Boi-Cavalo chef Hugo Brito has revived the longtime Alpendre around what he calls “Lisbon food,” bringing old city classics back to the table. And Porto chef Vasco Coelho Santos has headed south with Lamina, where whole-animal cooking, charcuterie, and dishes cooked over fire give his first Lisbon restaurant its identity. Rafael Tonon is a journalist and food writer living between Brazil and Portugal, covering the restaurant industry in Lisbon for outlets like the Washington Post, Epicurious, and leading Portuguese publications. A contributor to Eater since 2008, he is also the author of Food Revolutions (published in Portuguese and Spanish). Vida De Tasca Open for: Lunch and dinner Price range: $$ Neo-tascas are popping up everywhere in the city, but few seem to channel the old-school tavern charm as well as Vida de Tasca in the Alvalade neighborhood. Chef Leonor Godinho (from Bibs, a hip sandwich shop) spent years visiting traditional Portuguese eateries with friends before opening her own interpretation in a space that housed a classic tasca for over 40 years. Vida de Tasca stays true to tasca traditions with affordable prices, daily specials, and snacks like cod fritters and croquettes, all sans pretension. It’s a no-frills place, offering excellent food and the nostalgic charm of old Lisbon. Must-try dish: The menu changes often, but there’s usually a doce da casa, a surprise dessert crafted from whatever ingredients are on hand, true to Portuguese tradition. Casa Nepalesa Open for: Lunch and dinner Price range: $$ The charismatic and popular Nepalese chef Tanka Sapkota is known mainly for his Italian restaurants: Come Prima, Il Mercato, and Forno d’Oro. But at Casa Nepalesa, which he opened in 2010 and revamped in 2021, the chef pays tribute to Lisbon’s thriving Nepalese community by serving dishes from his home country that he’s particularly fond of, like cheesy naan or Alentejano lamb curry with onion, tomato, green pepper, and ginger. Must-try dish: Bakhra ko maasu ko jhol ra yarchagumba — a rich goat soup slow-cooked for hours, infused with Yarchagumba, the prized Himalayan fungus often called Nepal’s diamond. Versailles Open for: All day Price range: $ For a second, you might think you’re in Paris, but really this Lisbon patisserie has emulated an atmosphere of French elegance with its Art Nouveau-style building since 1922. Much has changed over the course of a century, but some things remain untouched in one of the most iconic cafes in the city: the croquettes fried to perfection, the carved wooden display cases, and the kindness of the waiters. These days, the cafe serves lunch and dinner too, but the pastry selection is the main reason for a visit. Come for the cakes, meringues, and traditional Portuguese sweets. Best for: A sweet or savory snack at any hour. Versailles stays open all day, including that rare window between lunch and dinner when most Lisbon kitchens shut down. Lamina Open for: Lunch and dinner Price range: $$$ Porto-based chef Vasco Coelho Santos headed south to open his first Lisbon restaurant, in an airy, French-bistro-like spot with sidewalk tables. Lamina — “animal” spelled backwards — hints at the restaurant’s approach: looking at animals, and vegetables too, from less obvious angles. That means offal, from chicken hearts to pig ears, and finding uses for leftovers, as with bread made using spent grain from beer production. Head chef Inês Azevedo runs the kitchen, with a menu that moves between house charcuterie and dishes cooked over charcoal and wood, with fire playing a central role, alongside preparations made in traditional clay púcaras (tall pots). Know before you go: At lunch, Lamina offers a weekday set menu with two changing dishes, often riffing on Portuguese classics, such as a grilled sardine cutlet with tomato rice or salt cod Gomes de Sá style. Padaria 110 Open for: Early morning to early afternoon Price range: $ In a small Picoas storefront, Joana Galo Costa has created the kind of neighborhood bakery every city needs, selling whole or half loaves to locals who stop by daily. There’s always fresh wheat bread, sourdough (including a gluten-free version), baguettes, and a rotating lineup that changes by the day — from rye bread to focaccia. The pastry counter shifts constantly too, with standouts like palmiers, honey-and-salt puff pastries, croissants, mango danishes, and plum clafoutis with whipped cream. Know before you go: This is primarily a grab-and-go bakery. There’s a small counter and just two tiny tables, but the space is compact and almost always packed. Tati Open for: Dinner Price range: $$ After closing its former location behind Mercado da Ribeira, Café Tati returned with a shorter name in a new address. On a charming corner, this combination restaurant and wine bar has become brighter and more welcoming, with a beautiful wooden bar and comfortable tables, where guests can enjoy the substantial wine list and a cuisine based on the freshest ingredients Argentinian chef Romina Bertolini can get daily from the market. Must-try dish: In a world where Argentine empanadas have been turned into chain-store staples, Bertolini’s beef empanada is a reminder of how good the real thing can be. Dobeco Open for: Daytime Price range: $$ In a city where bread, butter, and coffee are the holy trinity of mornings, Dobeco in the still-residential Arroios neighborhood offers the kind of atmosphere that makes it hard to leave. Inside, the space has a workshop feel; outside, the sidewalk tables are always packed. The menu covers breakfast, brunch, and lunch: sandwiches like pulled pork buns, brunchy plates such as a tornado omelet with kimchi or a croissant croque monsieur, plus a creative pastry counter. Expect Danish-style pastries alongside a handmade take on the bola de Berlim, Portugal’s answer to the doughnut. Recently, the team also opened a new branch in the lively Santos neighborhood. Know before you go: Book ahead, or arrive early if you want to snag a coveted spot in the sun. Santa Joana Open for: Dinner Price range: $$$ The prodigal son returns. After making his mark on London (where he runs Lisboeta), chef Nuno Mendes is back in his native Lisbon as the culinary director of Santa Joana, a striking bar and restaurant in the hotel Locke de Santa Joana, tucked in an old convent and close to the Marques de Pombal square. Mendes brings his signature modern approach to traditional Portuguese cuisine, as seen in grilles Alentejo pork presa, roasted walnut sauce and confit turnips, or pan-roasted turbot with seaweed emulsion and crushed potatoes. Vibe check: The restaurant unfolds across multiple spaces: Start at the counter with local oysters from the raw bar and a signature cocktail made with regional ingredients, then move to your table for the full experience. Henrique Sá Pessoa Open for: Lunch and dinner Price range: $$$$ After years at Alma — where he spent over a decade and earned two Michelin stars — Henrique Sá Pessoa steps into a new chapter with his most personal project yet; the name says as much. The room sets the tone: elegant but relaxed, with walls painted in a gradient of blues that nod to the sea. There’s a sense of closeness here, both in the service, which feels more direct and less ceremonial, and in the way the kitchen expresses itself. Sá Pessoa moves into a format of smaller plates, offering playful reinterpretations of classic Portuguese recipes, alongside dishes built around top-notch local products, combined in ways that feel precise, creative, and occasionally unexpected. Vibe check: While the cooking remains firmly Atlantic at its core, the space leans Mediterranean. Illustrations, plants, and natural light soften the room, bringing in a warmth that makes the whole experience feel light and fluid for a fine dining restaurant. Tasca Pete Open for: Dinner Price range: $$ It could’ve been a pub. But when Peter Templeton moved to Lisbon, he fell for a former tasca in the Penha de França neighborhood and decided to turn it into something of his own: an unfussy, seasonal restaurant that follows the spirit — and pricing — of Portugal’s beloved traditional restaurants. The menu changes weekly, scribbled by hand on sheets of paper just like in the old days, listing whatever is fresh and ready, perhaps steak tartare, cured snapper with radish, or confit beetroot with chestnut puree. The place only seats 18, which keeps things intimate and personal. Vibe check: Templeton worked to preserve the soul of the space, even making the Tasca Pete sign out of a vintage coffee advertisement. A meal is like time traveling back to 1960s Lisbon. JNcQUOI Fish Open for: Lunch and dinner Price range: $$$ JNcQUOI helped usher in a new era of upscale dining in Lisbon, pairing luxurious interiors with sharp hospitality and top-tier products almost one decade ago. Its newest sibling, JNcQUOI Fish, brings that philosophy fully into the realm of the Atlantic. Chefs António Bóia and Filipe Carvalho build a menu around pristine seafood: raw and cold preparations like tuna tartare with poached egg or thin-sliced fish with ginger and caviar, followed by perfectly grilled catches of the day. Know before you go: The restaurant features a hidden exclusive omakase-style counter named JNcQUOI Table, where Carvalho elevates the experience with a refined, ocean-inspired tasting menu for no more than 10 guests Pigmeu Open for: Lunch and dinner Price range: $$ Pigmeu is a pork lover’s heaven. The restaurant in the Campo de Ourique neighborhood is an ode to the ingredient that is ubiquitous in Portuguese cuisine from north to south. Chef Miguel Azevedo Peres and his team follow a nose-to-tail philosophy when working with the hog, incorporating pig into house charcuterie (made with meat and even skin) pork fat-infused butter, a pork-filled take on the classic bifana sandwich, and pork pudding. Vibe check: The atmosphere strikes a balance between a trendy wine bar and a laid-back tavern, which makes for a casual, no-fuss meal. Plano Restaurante Open for: Lunch and dinner Price range: $$$ Located in a 19th-century building that is now a hotel in the Graça neighborhood, Plano is a two-in-one restaurant. On most days, guests eat indoors in a charming, airy dining room with minimalist decor. But on hot summer nights, chef Vitor Adão sets up his kitchen in the intimate garden around the pool where, with the help of a charcoal grill beneath the orange trees, he cooks over open fire as if he were in the countryside. The six- to nine-course tasting menu changes frequently, highlighting the best local produce from each season. Vibe check: The restaurant has a charming terrace shaded by an orange tree, perfect for outdoor dining when the weather’s warm. Copo Largo Open for: Dinner Price range: $$ In Largo do Rato, one of Lisbon’s increasingly buzzy dining pockets, Copo Largo channels the spirit of the city’s old-school taverns. The chalkboard menu changes constantly, many with an Alentejo accent: steamed sea bass rissoles, roasted cuttlefish with vinegar, and shrimp xerém (a corn porridge). The flavors are unmistakably Portuguese, served in dishes made for sharing. Wine selections come straight from a cabinet that doubles as the cellar, stocked with bottles from across Portugal. Vibe check: Warm and intimate, somewhere between a neighborhood tavern and dinner at a friend’s home. Vintage furniture, low lighting, and Portuguese music set the mood, while the walls feature paintings by owner and front-of-house host Filipe Ramalho. Red Frog Open for: Night Price range: $$ The cocktail scene in Portugal is booming, thanks in part to Red Frog, a groundbreaker that has earned a spot on the World’s 50 Best list. The speakeasy has the intimate vibe of a bar from the Prohibition era, but the drinks are made with modern techniques involving gadgets such as centrifuges, rotovaps, and sous-vide machines. The current menu is a celebration of the bar’s 10th anniversary. Think carob from Algarve with lacto-fermented pineapple and tequila, or Azores cheese and a toasted cookie served with a black Manhattan. To eat, a short but efficient menu (with olives, jamón, and bell pepper hummus) pairs well with the alcohol. Know before you go: True to its speakeasy spirit, seats are few and highly coveted so booking ahead is your best bet. Ciclo Open for: Dinner Price range: $$ After working in kitchens around the world, chef José Maria Neves and maitre d’ Cláudia Abreu da Silva returned to Portugal to create a project they could truly call their own: Ciclo, a small restaurant in the Mouraria neighborhood, which is better known for its immigrant-led kitchens. Their menu is shaped entirely by the seasons and by a philosophy of using every part of each ingredient, from lesser-known animal cuts to vegetable leaves that would normally be discarded. Must-try menu: At an almost unbelievably affordable €80, the stellar eight-course tasting menu is the obvious choice. Gambrinus Open from: Lunch and dinner Price range: $$$ Opened in 1936, Gambrinus is an institution serving classic items like seafood rice, kidneys in Madeira wine, and crepes suzette made tableside. In a city where eating at the counter is a way of life, Gambrinus has perhaps the most famous counter in Lisbon, where locals huddle together to eat croquettes with mustard or snack on a prego (a garlicky, thin-sliced beef sandwich) with a beer. As at many traditional restaurants, each day of the week brings specific dishes, such as empadão de perdiz (partridge pies) on Mondays and roasted salt cod on Fridays. Vibe check: Open since 1936 and untouched since its 1964 remodel by architect Maurício de Vasconcelos, the space remains just as it was — wood-panelled walls, chandeliers hanging from the ceiling — a rare glimpse of a Lisbon that time left intact. Bar Alimentar Open for: Dinner Price range: $$$ At Bar Alimentar, chef João Magalhães Correia (known for Tricky’s) teams up with the crew behind the famous Bar Imprensa to create a laid-back gastrobar with Italian accent and Lisbon ease. The space hums with that familiar after-work energy, anchored by a cocktail list that’s as considered as the food, while the menu leans into small, shareable plates that are simple in structure, sharp in execution. There’s a clear throughline: plenty of vegetables, seafood that feels fresh and unfussy, and comforting pasta dishes that anchor the whole experience. Think mussels in guazzetto (stew), stracciatella with asparagus, or ravioli filled with dried figs and caramelized onion. A thoughtful selection of natural wines ties it all together, reinforcing the restaurant’s relaxed but intentional approach to dining. Must-try dish: The crispy polenta topped with beef tartare, tomato mayo, and a generous cloud of grated Parmesan is quietly addictive. Tasca Baldracca Open for: Lunch and dinner Price range: $$ “Fine dining is dead,” reads one poster as you step into this ultracasual venue in the Mouraria neighborhood. Tasca Baldracca is among a new generation of tascas (no-frills, affordable, traditional restaurants) where chefs are showing that the genre can be updated without losing the essential character of the neighborhood hangout. Though it may look casual, the restaurant surprises with food made with refined techniques and quality ingredients at affordable prices. There’s a lively mood in the dining room, where dishes designed for sharing generate a convivial atmosphere. Start with the couvert (sourdough bread and spreadable goat cheese), followed by items such as beef tartare, gizzard tempura, and roast suckling pig. Must-try dish: The house take on fried chicken, dubbed CFC (Caesar’s Fried Chicken), comes perfectly crisp, topped with Caesar dressing and a generous shaving of Parmesan. Quattro Teste Open for: Dinner Price range: $$ At Quattro Teste, bartender couple Alf del Portillo and Marta Premoli want you to have fun, creating their conceptual cocktails using high-tech gadgets and techniques. Channeling their Basque and Italian roots, respectively, they prepare a refined take on the kalimotxo (the traditional Basque combination of wine and cola) with lacto-fermented raspberry, a pesto margarita with Japanese melon liqueur and basil, and aperitivos using the best Italian ingredients. It’s one of the most creative bars in the city. Must-try drink: The menu is solid, but the real magic lies in the duo’s creativity. Ask for whatever cocktail they’re dreaming up that day. O Velho Eurico Open for: Lunch and dinner Price range: $$ On the way to São Jorge Castle, O Velho Eurico appears as if by providence, a cozy pit stop to replenish your energy with excellent Portuguese food, ideally on the charming terrace in the shade of some leafy trees. The old restaurant is now a place of pilgrimage, with the lines and sold out reservations for weeks to prove it. The menu is in the hands of young cook Zé Paulo Rocha, part of a new generation of Lisbon’s rising chefs, who have worked to move the dining scene forward. Expect traditional items made with a hint of modernity, like the excellent octopus carolino rice, pig head and white beans, bread pudding with beer caramel, and much more from a menu that changes daily. Know before you go: The restaurant has one of the toughest tables to snag — without a reservation, your best bet is to show up a few hours before opening and hope for a same-day cancellation. Zunzum Gastrobar Open for: Lunch and dinner Price range: $$$ Set in a sleek, glass-walled building near the Lisbon Cruise Terminal (and in front of the Santa Apolónia train station), Zunzum is chef Marlene Vieira’s stage for contemporary Portuguese cooking with a global accent. The red-and-white industrial dining room and Tagus-facing terrace set the scene for a lively, share-friendly menu. Highlights include Algarve pink prawns steamed with seaweed and lemon butter, duck magret with oven-baked rice and grape chutney, and charcoal-grilled octopus with broccoli mash and romesco. Desserts shine too — no surprise given Vieira’s past life as a pastry chef. Must-try dish: Vieira’s take on francesinha, Porto’s decadent, fork-and-knife sandwich drenched in spicy sauce. - Terminal de Cruzeiros de Lisboa, Av. Infante D. Henrique Doca, R. do Jardim do Tabaco do, 1100-651 Lisboa, Portugal - 351 915 507 870 - Visit website As Bifanas do Afonso Open for: All day Price range: $$ The bifana is Lisbon’s quintessential street food, consumed by the hundreds every day in the busiest neighborhoods in town. It is a simple sandwich with thin slices of fried pork shank (the best venues fry the meat in pork fat) stuffed into a crusty roll. To enhance the flavors, some places add a good amount of mustard poured straight from the squeeze bottle or a few drops of piri piri (hot sauce). Bifanas do Afonso, on the famously steep Rua da Madalena, is one of the most popular venues for the egalitarian delicacy. Long queues are undeniable proof of the quality of the sought-after sandwiches, which have been served there for over 40 years. The owners have partnered with a four-star hotel to open a sleek new space at the corner of Rua dos Sapateiros and Rua da Assunção. Know before you go: It’s probably the smallest — and one of the most coveted — counters in town, so time your visit outside peak hours if you want to skip the line. Ofício Open for: Lunch and dinner Price range: $$$ The space feels part school canteen, part contemporary art gallery — a deliberate contrast that sets the tone for what’s to come. At Ofício, chef Maurício Varella, newly arrived to the project, wants to serve comfortable food that resonates with both visitors and locals. As a self-styled “atypical tasco,” Ofício blends the lively spirit of a traditional Portuguese tavern with the precision and flair of a modern, chef-led kitchen. The result is a relaxed yet technically sharp take on Portuguese cuisine, ranging from local classics like cozido de grão, a rustic chickpea stew, to charcoal-grilled baby chicken. Vibe check: In Chiado, one of Lisbon’s most touristy neighborhoods, the restaurant aims to be an oasis of authenticity, bringing Portuguese tradition with a contemporary perspective. Juliana Penteado Pastry Open for: All day Price range: $$ In a country known for sweets rich in egg yolks and sugar, Brazilian pastry chef Juliana Penteado dared to innovate. Her small, charming pastry shop on Calçada da Estrela seamlessly blends precise French patisserie techniques, local ingredients, and global flavors. Penteado, a judge on Masterchef Portugal, studied at Le Cordon Bleu and lived in Paris before deciding to open her own business in Lisbon. Using organic culinary essential oils, she crafts pineapple choux with kaffir lime, caramel millefeuille with tangerines, and raspberry cheesecake with verbena. Must-try dish: Penteado’s buttery cookies in flavors like lemongrass or tangerine, are perfect for pairing with coffee or tea. They are one of many reasons people line up outside her shop on weekends. Alcôa Conventual Sweets Open for: All day Price range: $ It is impossible to pass by this corner pastry shop in Chiado without stopping to marvel at all the mouthwatering sweet treats that fill the window. The sugary, eggy tarts and pastries are made according to centuries-old traditional recipes developed by Cistercian monks in the monastery of Alcobaça, where the original Alcôa was founded in 1957. Many baked goods even come with religious names like queijinhos do céu (heaven’s cheese), ovos do paraíso (eggs of paradise), and toucinho do céu (bacon from heaven). Must-try dish: Many come for the pastel de nata, but stay for the cornucópias — a lesser-known Portuguese treat shaped like an ice cream cone and made with sugar, lard, toast, slivered almonds, and, of course, rich egg yolks. Prado Open for: Lunch and dinner Price range: $$$ This unassuming but elegant, modern restaurant in the downtown Sé area has been a mandatory visit since it opened in 2017, thanks mainly to talented chef António Galapito, who creates recipes that are luscious, creative, minimalist, and beautiful. The former sous chef under acclaimed chef Nuno Mendes while they were both in London, Galapito focuses his micro-seasonal menu at Prado on organic ingredients from Portuguese producers. Order a little bit of everything to share, ideally with a glass of natural wine from the fantastic selection. Know before you go: At the back, a wine bar serves seasonal small plates and organic, low-intervention Portuguese wines, lining up with the restaurant’s local-first philosophy. Alpendre Open for: Dinner Price range: $$ In a city whose tastes have changed dramatically, chef Hugo Brito, formerly of cult favorite Boi-Cavalo, has taken over the kitchen at the reborn Alpendre with a seemingly simple mission: putting what he calls “Lisbon food” back on the city’s tables. The menu, handwritten on the restaurant’s facade, reads like a roll call of local classics: cod fritters, peas with a poached egg, salt cod with batatas a murro (crushed roasted potatoes), bitoque à Alpendre (steak with a fried egg), and octopus à lagareiro. Finish with the old-school flan, its caramel sauce lightly scented with orange blossom. Know before you go: Amid the bustle around Lisbon Cathedral, Alpendre was a longtime city classic, known for displaying fish and meat in its street-facing window. Its revival is part of a broader movement to bring back Lisbon restaurants that had closed or were on the verge of disappearing, alongside places like Varina da Madragoa and Vida de Tasca. Belcanto Open for: Lunch and dinner Price range: $$$$ Famous chef José Avillez owns a restaurant empire in town. With its two Michelin stars, his elegant Belcanto, at the heart of the charming Chiado neighborhood, is Lisbon’s most acclaimed fine dining venue. Here, Avillez and his team serve modern Portuguese dishes a la carte or as a tasting menu. Explore Portugal through his creative takes on tasty classics like suckling pig, pork trotters with coriander, orange peel puree and lettuce heart, and and hake with cod sames (the fish swim bladder) cured egg yolk and truffle. Know before you go: Many dishes draw from the chef’s childhood memories, including one dessert that comes with a shirt sleeve guests are invited to wear and use to wipe their mouths, just like he did as a kid. Sála de João Sá Open for: Dinner, with lunch on Saturdays Price range: $$$ The atmosphere at chef João Sá’s downtown Sála is informal, while dishes are creative and contemporary, combining Portuguese heritage with global influences. You can’t go wrong with one of the two tasting menus, Horizon at Sight or In Search of New Textures, including Sá’s version of asparagus with matcha and pistachio, or the eel served with caldeirada (fish stew) sauce and black garlic. Must-try dish: Sá’s take on Goan curry, made with spider crab and harissa. Famijlien Open for: Dinner Price range: $$ Opened a little over a year ago, Familjen already feels at home in Lisbon’s new restaurant landscape. Swedish chef Peter Nyström fell for the city and settled in Madragoa, a traditional neighborhood that’s becoming an increasingly interesting place to eat. Familjen — Swedish for “the family” — takes its cues from the kind of food Nyström likes to cook: big flavors, plenty of spice, and little allegiance to the Nordic-cuisine rulebook he followed for more than 2 decades. The short menu is built around deceptively simple dishes meant for sharing, with focus on products and contrasts doing much of the work. For diners who don’t want to choose, Nyström also offers a tasting menu, cheekily called No FOMO, that lets you try it all. Must-try dish: The beef tartare is the one Nyström can’t take off the menu, served with horseradish cream, suya butter, and homemade roti. Ryoshi Open for: Dinner Price range: $$ Some of the city’s finest sushi restaurants are led not by Japanese chefs, but by Brazilians — a reflection of Japan’s deep cultural imprint on Brazil, especially in São Paulo. Take chef Lucas Azevedo. After a celebrated stint heading one of Lisbon’s buzziest omakase counters at Praia no Parque, the Brazil-born chef — a Lisbon resident since 2001 — returned with a new project: Ryoshi. Here, he leans into a more traditional vision of Japanese cuisine. The menu features elegant, soulful dishes like onigiri chazuke (a crisp grilled rice ball with umeboshi and genmaicha tea), horse mackerel tartare with fried tofu and shiso (known as nomorou), and his already iconic “frangyosas”: chicken wing gyoza as whimsical as they are delicious. Must-try dish: Azevedo’s veal tongue katsu sando has quickly become one of the city’s most coveted and most discussed bites. Parra Wine Bistro Open for: Dinner to late night Price range: $$$ Parra stands out from the growing crowd of wine bars as a small yet elegant bistro where the menu changes daily, the service feels easygoing, and the wine is taken seriously — especially by the glass, which makes exploring Portugal’s diverse producers (and few from other regions in Europe) a pleasure rather than a splurge. The project is the brainchild of Artur Emashev, a Russian who fled the war and found the chance to build something deeply personal in Lisbon. He invested in a stylish space with soft green marble walls and a hip communal table that anchors the room. But Parra isn’t all looks: The food, rooted in modern bistronomy, ranges from blood sausage toast and fresh Portuguese shellfish to a few well-executed classics. Add to that a wide selection of natural wines, and it becomes one of the most interesting spots in the city to eat and drink. Vibe check: A mix of expats and locals fills the tables, and the mood remains relaxed — it’s the kind of place where you’ll want to sit outside, glass in hand, and watch Lisbon drift by. Lupita Open for: Lunch and dinner Price range: $ In a city that learned to eat pizza with a knife and fork, Lupita is producing high-quality Neapolitan-style pies that tempt diners to dig in with their hands. Duda Ferreira makes his naturally leavened pizzas using fresh, local ingredients, amplifying flavors with creative spins. Consider toppings like anchovies with caramelized onion; zucchini with burrata and mint; or mozzarella with pepperoni crumble and alla vodka sauce. Must-try dish: Ferreira’s take on the pineapple-on-pizza question: mozzarella topped with pickled red onion, bacon, and pineapple. It’s sharp, smoky, and just sweet enough. Barbela C.P.M. Open for: Dinner Price range: $$$ At the counter or seated at one of the tables, Barbela Companhia de Peixe e Marisco (Barbela C.P.M., for short) channels the precision of a sushi counter with a cosmopolitan rhythm that feels distinctly Lisbon right now. It’s the first project in the city from Portuguese chef Leandro Carreira, whose career has largely unfolded abroad. Here, fish and seafood take centrer stage, but not in the expected ways, as Carreira leans heavily on aging and fermentation, using both techniques to deepen flavor and reshape texture, guided by seasonality and a commitment to lesser-seen species whenever possible. The menu is divided between raw and cooked dishes, offering a creative, thought-provoking selection in a city where fish still tends to follow a familiar script: either grilled over charcoal or sliced into sushi. At Barbela, there’s a clear sense of something opening up in between. Know before you go: Inside Barbela C.P.M., you’ll also find Bela, a cozy bar led by Brazilian bartender and partner Lula Mascella, with a tight list of signature cocktails alongside a separate snack menu by Carreira. Jorge D’Amália Open for: Weekday lunch Price range: $ The walls of this tiny tasca in Ajuda are covered in vintage memorabilia from a Belém-based football club, and it’s also the place to go for one of Lisbon’s most underrated classic dishes: the bitoque. While the city is often defined by cod, seafood, and pastéis de nata, this humble dish — a lean fried steak with fries and a crispy fried egg — has always been a locals’ favorite. At Jorge D’Amália, it comes exactly as it should: cooked with care but no frills, served on a stainless-steel tray with a garlicky, fatty pan sauce. Beyond the bitoque, the short menu leans into tavern staples like pica-pau, alheira sausage, and braised chicken gizzards. In the kitchen, Dona Maria José handles the cooking while her husband — the restaurant’s namesake — serves the 18 tightly packed seats. Vibe check: The crowd ranges from construction workers to politicians, all squeezed in for a steak that feels like a portal to a Lisbon that’s slowly fading away. Canalha Open for: Lunch and dinner Price range: $$ After leaving a Michelin-starred restaurant in the city, acclaimed chef João Rodrigues decided to take a different path: Canalha is his love letter to Lisbon’s neighborhood restaurants — think marble counter, leather chairs, and a TV tuned to soccer matches — all built around the finest products the Iberian Peninsula has to offer. From 100 percent Portuguese charcuterie (such as acorn-fed Iberian ham) to the freshest sea creatures, the menu is straightforward and executed with impeccable technique. There’s also a touch of tradition in some of the dishes, such as the bitoque (a steak crowned with a fried egg and a signature pan sauce) and the leite creme (Portugal’s answer to creme brulee). Since its opening, Canalha has become one of the city’s most coveted dining experiences, making advance booking essential. Vibe check: The counter’s the place to be — it’s perfect for watching the kitchen at work and doing as the locals do. Nunes Real Marisqueira Open for: Lunch to late night Price range: $$$ Portugal’s coastline is blessed with some of the world’s best fish and shellfish, and Marisqueira Nunes has spent over two decades proving exactly that. Now in a new address in a renovated building on the same street, Miguel and Vanda Nunes continue serving pristine seafood with the precision that made the restaurant a Lisbon classic: think creamy stuffed spider-crab shell spread on warm toast, ultra-fresh percebes, and flawless amêijoas à Bulhão Pato (clams with white wine, garlic, and cilantro). Vibe check: Since relocating, the restaurant has leaned fully into an Art Deco sensibility — the floor is patterned with stylized sea creatures, while a central vaulted ceiling crowned with lobster-red mosaic glass casts a warm, theatrical glow over the room. Feitoria Open for: Dinner Price range: $$$$ Located in the touristy Belém neighbourhood, Michelin-starred Feitoria showcases the very best of Portugal’s produce from small, local producers. Chef André Cruz combines high-level techniques with traditional Portuguese flavors to craft an unforgettable dining experience, all while offering stunning views of the Tagus River. Standout dishes include cod with potato, mushroom, and parsley; Cruz’s take on cozido do mar (a seafood stew highlighting fresh coastal ingredients); and a traditional Sericaia dessert from the Alentejo region, made with eggs and served with herb ice cream and honey. Best for: A refined dining experience that showcases the richness and diversity of Portuguese ingredients.