In Conversation with Jeff Koons on His New Collaboration with Hublot

Watch collaborations have saturated the market in recent years, but when I heard Jeff Koons was getting involved in designing a model, my ears perked up. His Celebration series featuring his Balloon Dog sculptures makes up one of the most memorable works of art to emerge in my lifetime as a child of the 90s. I wasn’t surprised this would be the source of inspiration for the watches he’d create. The artist and self-proclaimed weirdo in me has always appreciated the daring and disruptive nature of Koons’ creations, but to the masses, they’ve been polarizing. It was clear that his approach to design wouldn’t be the right fit for just any watch brand – it would need to be with a maker who was equally daring, disruptive, and perhaps even polarizing itself. Enter Hublot, who has long received scrutiny for its audacious models that buck Swiss tradition. “I remember maybe about 15 years ago, I was at an event for the Louis Vuitton Foundation, and I had a conversation with Bernard Arnault,” Koons recalls. “He said, ‘you know, Jeff, you should make a watch,’ but we never did. Years later, our sons became friends, and Frederic said to my son Sean, ‘your dad should make a watch – Hublot has a lot of interest in partnering with him.’ And I was really excited about this idea of working with new materials and working with time.” All that said, the goal has never been a shock factor – it’s about authenticity – Koons’ identity as an artist and Hublot’s ethos as a brand. “I’m an intuitive artist,” affirms Koons, “If somebody just tries to make something outrageous, disjointed in some way, or clashing in some way, it doesn’t succeed. It has to be natural. It has to come from curiosity, from an interest in everything.” With these guiding principles, the duo collaborated over the course of two years on translating Koons’ works and design language into the constraints of a wristwatch, and ultimately, the Balloon Dog-inspired timepieces took shape. Many of Koons’ creations are monumental in size, with the largest Balloon Dog sculptures towering 10 feet. So, scaling down to the millimeter while retaining the essence of Koons’ artistic expression was no small feat. “Plato would always say that the first thing you deal with in art is scale,” explains Koons, “and what I loved about working on a timepiece is that we’re really dealing with scale. A watch is really a fascinating object,” Koons continues, “It scales down or gives definition to this very vast concept of the universe we call time through concrete principles of mathematics and engineering. Without timepieces, we wouldn’t have this understanding.”