Hands On: Berneron Quantième Annuel

Hands On: Berneron Quantième Annuel Maximum effort.After introducing the asymmetrical Mirage and then scaling it down for the Mirage 34, Berneron has changed direction for its third release. The Quantième Annuel is rigidly symmetrical — and the brand’s first complicated watch — but continues to embody the high-effort philosophy demonstrated by the brand’s debut models. That ambition extends beyond its instantaneous annual calendar mechanism to an unusual construction with replaceable steel bumpers designed to absorb everyday wear. Initial thoughts Deadpool, the titular super hero portrayed on screen by Ryan Reynolds — himself a budding watch collector — is known for his signature catchphrase, “maximum effort.” That might as well be the unofficial slogan for Berneron, a brand that has surprised collectors with the lengths it’s willing to go to get small details just right. This was clear from the outset. When the brand made its debut with the Mirage in late 2023, collectors fawned over its full gold construction — which extends even to the spring bars — and its ovoid cal. 233 movement that takes full advantage of its asymmetrical case, which is said to follow the Fibonacci sequence. These attributes were repeated at smaller scale — small enough to require an entirely different movement — with the Mirage 34. The QA is Berneron’s third watch, and by far its most complicated. Once again, the “maximum effort” mentality is on display in all aspects of the design and construction, including a gold movement and an unusual multi-part case with replaceable steel bumpers. Of course, this mentality comes with a cost. Many of the decisions made by founder Sylvain Berneron — such as using a different movement platform for each watch — delight collectors but increase production costs significantly. As a result, the QA is priced at CHF140,000 —more than twice the price of the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar. Shocking symmetry, inside and out The first thing to note about the QA is that it looks nothing like the Mirage. In place of its predecessor’s organic, oozy shape, the QA is rigidly symmetrical, with a clear emphasis on legibility. Even the cal. 595 movement is laid out for maximum symmetry, revealing a designer’s eye inside and out. Coming after the Mirage, the look is almost shocking. That’s partly the point, as Mr Berneron has made clear he does not want to be known for just one style. Strategically, this is a clever gambit that enables Berneron to avoid getting typecast, or associated with a single aesthetic. By releasing a follow-up model so different from its predecessors, Berneron demonstrates that the brand is defined not by a single design concept, but by the attributes that all models have in common, like gold movements with model-specific architecture. The QA’s look has been compared to that of the Lange Zeitwerk, but the resemblance stems from a shared concept — emphasising legibility with large jumping discs — and the similarity is otherwise incidental. Laudable legibility The QA is regulator-style jumping hours watch with an instantaneous annual calendar and an almost obsessive focus on legibility. The time is read top-to-bottom, starting with the oversized jumping hours window at 12 o’clock. The minutes are indicated by a central hand, and the small seconds sub-dial at six o’clock is augmented with a discreet day/night indicator to simplify the setting procedure. The date is read left-to-right in the European format — day, date, month — with a large jumping weekday indicator at nine o’clock, a retrograde date pointer co-axial with the central minutes hand, and a month window at three o’clock. The retrograde date pointer is worth a special mention for its balanced design. Note the 18th day of the month — rather than the 16th — occupies the mid-point on the scale. This detail is underpinned by proprietary gearing and improves legibility toward the end of the month. After looking at the Berneron date ring, other similar retrograde date designs start to appear lopsided, with plenty of room between the single digits at the beginning of the month and compressed spacing toward the end — like a child’s handwriting when running out of space. Furthermore, the four windows — hour, day, month, and AM/PM — jump instantly to ensure there’s no ambiguity about the hour or the date. Discs are heavier than hands, so to ensure the discs jump reliably without compromising amplitude, each jump is powered by its own individual tension spring that is loaded throughout the day. Setting the date couldn’t be easier, and many established brands would benefit from following Berneron’s lead. The time and date are set via the crown, while the day and month discs can be advanced with dedicated pushers discreetly integrated into the case band. The pushers are sleek enough to disappear, but big enough to actuate with a finger tip, rather than a stylus. Moreover, the movement has redundant safety systems in place so that the date can be adjusted at any time of the day or night. It would be reasonable to speculate that all this functionality would entail a prodigious parts count, but the QA’s total count of 476 components is actually less than that of the Saxonia Annual Calendar’s 491, though still far more than a traditional perpetual calendar, like Patek Philippe’s 275-part cal. 240 Q. While the latter’s automatic winding system contributes to those sums, the comparison illustrates that Berneron’s constructors have found a fairly efficient path to the the cal. 595’s multi-jump functionality. A feeling of density Ergonomics and wearability are evidently key priorities for Berneron, a brand that has — so far — released three different models, each with unusually compact proportions. On the wrist, the QA conveys an almost overwhelming feeling of density. The compact 38 mm case, which is both reasonably small and quite slim at just 10 mm, is heavier than it looks due to its platinum construction and gold movement components. The surprising heft gives the QA a reassuring presence on the wrist. About 85% of the mass of the case comes from its platinum construction. The rest is stainless steel, which is used for the bezel, crown pusher, and lug panels. Each of these elements is easily replaceable during service, and act as bumpers to protect the precious platinum from premature wear and tear. This concept has proven somewhat controversial among internet commenters, many of whom expressed a preference for an all-platinum case given the price of the QA. But viewed through the Berneron lens, the steel bumpers are further evidence of the brand’s ‘maximum effort’ approach to design. On the wrist, the steel components are almost indistinguishable from those made of platinum, and should give the wearer more confidence in day-to-day movements like reaching into a zippered pocket or brief case. The hinged officer-style case back is unexpected, but works with satisfying precision via the release mechanism built into the crown. A golden calibre The golden construction and fine finishing of the cal. 595 are the common thread that connects each of Berneron’s watches. Like it’s stablemates, the plates and bridges are solid 18k gold, are are adorned with the brand’s unique approach to the Côtes de Genève, engraved line-by-line with a fixed-point graver affixed to a CNC lathe — effectively guilloche. This emergent house style takes some getting used to, as the ‘striping’ looks much heavier than is common in haute horlogerie, and the pattern is framed on all sides by defined borders. That said, the quality of the work is obvious, and most of the other details, including the polished anglage and steel balance bridge, are immaculate up close. While the cal. 595 features double mainspring barrels to ensure adequate torque for the duration of the QA’s 100-hour power reserve and reliable charging of the four individual tension springs for the jumping indicators, both barrels deliver power through a single going train. This detail contextualises the presence of the symmetrical sonnerie-style winding click — without independent trains to wind, the elaborate click mechanism is used as an expression of craft. The same approach has been taken recently by Greubel Forsey, and the choice is a pleasing homage to historical watchmaking and feels at home in Berneron’s first complicated watch. Key facts and price Berneron Quantième Annuel Diameter: 38 mm Height: 10 mm Material: Platinum with steel bumpers Crystal: Sapphire crystal Water-resistance: 30 m Movement: Cal. 595 Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, annual calendar with day/night indicator Winding: Hand-wound Frequency: 21,600 bph (3 Hz) Power reserve: 100 hours Strap: Leather strap with steel pin buckle Limited Edition: Yes, 24 per year in each colour over 10 years Availability: Directly from Berneron Price: CHF140,000 (excluding taxes) For more, visit berneron.ch. Back to top.