My Favorite Airbnb: An Idyllic Writers’ Retreat in Oxford, England

Oxford, England, is a writer’s paradise—full of literary lore, historic places to grab a cheeky pint, and enough bookstores to make your eyes water. It’s known as the “City of Dreaming Spires” thanks to its stunning cityscape featuring the Oxford University buildings and churches. It’s where C.S. Lewis and J.R.R. Tolkien met and wrote early drafts of The Lord of the Rings and The Chronicles of Narnia. I recently visited the area for a writing retreat and was on the hunt for the perfect place for a few friends and me to rest our heads in between our creative pursuits. We chose this charming garden flat a 10-minute walk from central Oxford due to its proximity to both the train station and Central Oxford, and the fact that it had three bedrooms and three bathrooms (a must when traveling with people you don’t know that well). Upon arrival, we were immediately charmed by the flat’s cozy sitting room, Scandi-style minimalist bedrooms, and well-appointed kitchen, which, let’s be honest, we only used for making coffee and opening up a bottle of Scotch for late-night literary talks. There was also a refrigerator and a washer/dryer combo that was useful after a week of traveling. We got lucky with a gorgeous June week for our visit, but I do think this flat would be just as charming in the famous English rain, especially with the airy greenhouse-like glass-ceilinged kitchen and the courtyard-framing windows in the back bedroom. The courtyard is the feature that really shines and makes this place so special—my friends and I spent our mornings drinking coffee out here while planning our days and listening to the European robin's melodic chirping (Oxford turned me into something of a birder). This natural respite felt like a special treat in an area where green public spaces abound. Embarrassingly, we could not find the third bedroom on our first night. In my defense, there was a map of the layout inside the Airbnb, and it did not indicate that the shed-like structure out back was itself a standalone third bedroom with its own bathroom. Once I discovered that on the second night, I claimed it for myself. It was a small space, but the Murphy bed pulled down over the couch very easily and created just the right size space for one. The shed had the most spacious of the three bathrooms; there was one other en suite and another hall bath, all of which had a modern and minimalist aesthetic that felt clean and soothing. The shed also had a pull-down table that was great for my early-morning or late-night writing sessions with a steaming mug of tea by my side. While the flat sleeps six, and the minimalist Scandi-style decor—reflected in the furniture, art, and decor accents throughout—makes it feel bigger than it is, it’s still not quite big enough for such a large group to hang out in all day. Fortunately, its location just a short walk from the city center more than makes up for it. Some of my favorite spots in town included the iconic domed Radcliffe Camera library, where you could apply in person for a pass to read, study, or write alongside students and faculty. There was something wonderful about the energy of the space—sprinkled with students diligently studying for final exams. After I was done acting studious, I headed over to the nearby (and more than slightly hidden) Turf Tavern, which is tucked away down a narrow alley, and found a nook to nurse a pint while eavesdropping on University gossip alongside the medieval remains of Oxford’s city walls. For literary souvenir shopping, look no further than Scriptum, a cram-packed treasure trove of inkwells, fountain pens, leatherbound journals and wax seals. I got my daughter a feather quill pen that has become her most treasured possession. Another plus about our location was that we were a short-ish walk from some of our favorite evening spots in Port Meadow, an area with restaurants and pubs accessed by a walking path along the eastern bank of the River Thames. A favorite was The Medley, where we enjoyed dog watching, phenomenal pizza, and a few too many ice buckets of the house white. I would come back to Oxford in a heartbeat, and this excellent Airbnb is a soft place to rest your head, not only for writer retreats but also for friend groups and family vacations—just don’t forget about the third bedroom!