Roger Dubuis Reimagines the Excalibur as Samurai Art

Roger Dubuis Reimagines the Excalibur as Samurai Art “The Kabuto Legacy” brings 12 historical helmets to the wrist.The Roger Dubuis Excalibur “The Kabuto Legacy” transforms the brand’s monumental Excalibur case into a showcase for Japanese history and miniature craftsmanship. Thematically similar to the the Knights of the Round Table (KRT) collection, the samurai-inspired dial centres around a contemporary interpretation of an Edo-period castle with 12 individually hand-engraved pink gold kabuto, each based on the distinctive helmet of a historical warrior. Initial thoughts Watches like the Excalibur Kabuto are not ‘watches’ in the typical sense, and only make sense through an artistic lens. Collectors who spend a lot of time in the spec sheets will likely come away unimpressed, but with only 28 pieces being made, the Excalibur Kabuto represents a sub-segment of haute horlogerie that treats the watch case as a miniature art gallery. While some may be indifferent to the samurai motif, the quality of work — from the hand-engraved helmets on the dial to the laser-engraved precision of the crests in the rotor — is remarkable. Furthermore, the playful minimalism of the Edo castle, which from some angles looks like an enormous faceted sapphire, is an inspired work of miniature architecture. The case is identical to that of the KRT collection. It’s 45 mm and nearly 17 mm thick — height that accommodates a sapphire crystal ring underneath the bezel. This elaborate construction helps flood the miniature sculptures with light and provides a better look at the engraving work. In short, it’s a big watch, but as is sometimes the case with works of métiers d’art, the size is put to good use and you wouldn’t want it any smaller. The case also features the brand’s own interchangeable strap system, and the stock strap is inspired by samurai armour, with its characteristic stitching and overlapping leather panels. Pricing has not yet been confirmed, but RD’s recent editions of the KRT collection — substantively identical to the Excalibur Kabuto — have listed close to US$400,000. These time-only watches are mechanically simple, so the value proposition rests on the quality of the engraving and the emotional resonance of the samurai motif. Twelve samurai In place of the 12 Knights of the Round Table, each of the 12 hour markers of the Excalibur Kabuto is fashioned after the kabuto, or helmet, of a prominent historical samurai. These helmets were not merely protective; rather, their distinctive ornaments helped establish a warrior’s public identity. In this sense, they complement the samurai’s kamon, or family crest, even though the decorative motifs may differ. For this reason, each of the 12 kabuto are different. At the top of the dial, the Tokugawa Ieyasu’s (1543-1616) helmet is adorned with fern fronds on what is known as the kabuto’s maedate. Likewise, Kato Yoshiaki’s (1563-1631) helmet, at 11 o’clock, is flanked with twin bird tail ornaments that arch dramatically. The family crests can be found on the rotor, which complicates identifying the kamon, since it rotates, and because the motifs often differ from the subject matter of the maedate. For example, Date Masamune’s (1567-1636) helmet is adorned with a crescent moon, while his family emblem is comprised of bamboo leaves and sparrows. That said, a buyer of a watch like this is likely already familiar with these emblems. Rounding out the list of key warriors featured on the dial are Honda Tadakatsu (1548-1610), Sakai Tadakatsu (1527-1596), Mizuno Katsunari (1564-1651), Sakakibara Yasumasa (1548-1606), Itakura Katsushige (1545-1624), Kuroda Nagamasa (1568-1623), Hosokawa Tadaoki (1563-1646), II Naomasa (1561-1602), and Asano Nagamasa (1547-1611). For the Excalibur Kabuto, RD’s engravers have rendered each helmet in 18k pink gold, engraved by hand to bring out the minute details, like the fern fronds on Ieyasu’s maedate. The link between horology and headwear might seem tenuous, but the subject matter is conducive to this type of artisanship because each helmet design is different, showcasing a range of skills, and also because the designs are not random, but modelled after a historical artefact. This allows each engraver to prove their capacity for realism. To ensure the artists’ work was executed with the appropriate historical accuracy, RD worked with Frederik Cryns, who wrote the book that inspired the award-winning television series, Shōgun. This academic rigour helped ensure that the engravers’ time — two to three days of work per helmet — was well spent. The helmets face inward, toward a miniature structure resembling a castle from the Edo period. Unlike the helmets, which are engraved in a highly realistic fashion, the castle’s design is somewhat abstract, and distinctly contemporary in its colours and finishes. Mechanical simplicity The Excalibur Kabuto is powered by the in-house cal. RD821, a familiar two-hand movement that powers the KRT collection as well as gem-set models in the brand’s Velvet line. As is typical of RD movements, the RD821 is constructed, finished, and assembled in a manner that earns it the Geneva Seal. As a result, it’s an attractive movement with an unambiguous origin in the Geneva suburbs, even if mechanically it’s a straightforward automatic platform with a relatively short 48-hour power reserve. Unfortunately the mid-sized movement is dwarfed by the 45 mm case, though this is mitigated by a large and elaborate rotor embellished with twelve samurai crests. The crests are engraved by laser, which reveals the 18k pink gold substrate under the blue coating. Key facts and price Roger Dubuis Excalibur The Kabuto Legacy Ref. DBEX1139 Diameter: 45 mm Height: 16.87 Material: 18k pink gold and sapphire Crystal: Sapphire Water resistance: 30 m Movement: RD821 Functions: Hour and minutes Winding: Automatic Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz) Power reserve: 48 hours Strap: Leather strap with folding clasp Limited edition: 28 pieces Availability: At Roger Dubuis boutiques only Price: Upon request For more information, visit Rogerdubuis.com. Back to top.